Once again, we are at the start of a new year, and I’m trying to go back through my camera roll and figure out just how many garments I made last year. What things did I make and forget? What things did I make that became such an instant, integral part of my wardrobe that I kinda forgot I even made them–or at least, forgot I made them so recently?
Last year, I wrote about how I sew: in chapters, in batches, and by category.
I also wrote about my 2024 sewing goals: to sew with a one in/two out economy, donating or repurposing two garments from my closet for every garment I brought in; to ruthlessly sew from my stash rather than purchasing new fabrics; and to focus on core layering pieces and investment-quality garments.
Considering how many of my garments from both 2023 and 2024 were near-constant re-wears, I think I did pretty well.
My 2024 Sewing Constraints:
I had a few things that formed parameters for my sewing in 2024, and that will influence my sewing in 2025, so they’re worth mentioning here.
1: I made the vast majority of garments in 2024 for The League, and so I was motivated to spend more time thinking about how each garment fit into a wardrobe as a whole.
Specifically, I was working on the first collection for the How To Sew Clothes video series, a guide I created exclusively for The League with garment patterns designed to be “hacked” (a word I don’t love, but it’s efficient, I’ll give it that). Each of the five garments in the first collection was created on purpose to be highly variable, so every single pattern comes complete with video instructions for three different variations that transform the design into a whole new look. This allows you to print patterns fewer times but still make more garments, none of which look the same, and all of them expand your sewing skills as you go.
For example, the Get Up & Go Skirt is a classic flat front/elastic back gathered skirt. The image above is the skirt made straight from the pattern.
In 2024, I made three variations, two of which I wore so often I forgot I made them this year:
The first image is a lined version with a gathered hem flounce. The second is a maxi version with cut-on pockets. And the third version is a mini-length pleated version made of scuba knit–the only one I don’t wear as often as the other two.
Of my total number of handmade garments, fully 16 of them are samples & variations I made using the How To Sew Clothes patterns.
There’s the Modern Babydoll Dress, which I used to make a tiered, gathered beachy dress, a soft double-gauze boho cardigan; and a lace going-out dress.
There’s the Drawstring Shift, which I used to make a short version with a contrast hem panel and a shoulder ruffle; a henley placket version from a very soft silk (that was LEFT IN A HOTEL, if you see it in New Orleans pleeeaaaaase call me); and a cropped version with a self-facing and a peplum hem. I wore the henley version the most, until I left it in the closet at the Marriott, boooooo.
An all-time favorite pattern is the Seamless Lounge pants, which I used to make a pair with reduced rise and patch pockets; with a side seam, in-seam pockets, and a hem band; and a knit pair with a separate waistband plus elasticated hems. I have seriously worn all of these TO DEATH.
The Tuxedo Tank, the last of the five How To Sew Clothes patterns included in the video series, is a quick make. I made a version with a bias-cut inset panel; a version with a pleated panel; and a version with a shoulder ruffle and elastic waist that makes an excellent mock-jumpsuit with the Seamless Lounge Pants. I wore the first and third of these TO DEATH last summer.
2: I sewed many of my garments last year as part of a video series, including the ones above but also The League’s HOW TO SEW CAPES series, which was really built around the idea that a cape is a grest “bridge” sewing project. It’s less daunting and less of a time commitment than a coat, but just as useful; it’s a blank canvas for things like bound buttonholes or hand-stitched linings; and it can be made in varying lengths for almost any occasion. My favorites are these:
Neither of these got the photo shoot they deserved. The short cape is an incredible boucle wool, with a full lining of magenta silk, all hand-sewn. I’ve worn it at least a half-dozen times, and I feel SO chic in it. The other, black one is in an unreal luxury wool, with the same silk lining, and hand-bound buttonholes. I wore it over a formal gown to a black tie event at the holidays, and not only was it warmer than a coat, it was easier to put over a fancy dress.
3: My remaining sewing was for projects I spent a lot of time thinking about, long and hard–and the ones I didn’t, I didn’t love.
This Nova Coat, for example, was a project I made as a “next step” after capes, as an example of a garment that’s more complicated than a cape but not quite as involved as, say, the Jasika Jacket. It turned out SO WELL, and I wore it on a trip out of town with my husband and basked in the compliments.
This Logan Shacket I made for my daughter to take off to college with her, in a massive buffalo-check flannel I got just for her. After that, I made a version for myself with a wool jersey, the first photo in this post, and added a faced hem as part of a sewalong with The League. Both of them went quickly and turned out even better than I’d hoped–the wool version I made for myself has gone on every trip I’ve taken since.
I did try to whip up something short and sweet when I made this Darla Jumpsuit in washed silk. It turned out well, but I should have made a muslin; it needs about 1″ in the waist length for me to love it, which meant it didn’t get worn very often this summer, even though I put it on a dozen times. I just kept taking it off again, dissatisfied in the fit. I’m taking it as a lesson learned.
I had better luck making a new sample of the revised Carport Skirt pattern (which will be included in the second collection for the How To Sew Clothes video series, this year). I spent one afternoon stitching this up, complete with in-seam pockets, and I loooooooove it.
The last project for which I have photographic evidence (there’s every possibility I made other things this year and didn’t take photos, but I feel confident most of those were repairs) was this yoga bag. I wanted a design where I could slide my mat into a sleeve, but the sleeve would still have function when the mat wasn’t there. I LOVED the concept, but discovered that the bag is pretty unwieldy with the mat in it, and honestly, the mod felt redundant on the already amazing Oxbow Tote sewing pattern. So I like this bag, and use it some, but not the way I expected despite weeks and weeks of thinking about it.
How I did on my 2024 goals:
From this roll call of finished items, I have a couple takeaways from 2024. I’m pretty proud of how well I did. I DID pull two garments out to donate (or give to one of my daughters) for everything I made this year. I DID NOT sew exclusively from stash, although I DID use some older cuts of fabric I’d been hoarding for a while. So maybe not “ruthless,” but I made an effort. And I was very successful at making pieces that have investment quality and that layer well. This shirt, for example, was on HEAVY rotation all year, and got constant wear:
Other things I learned from 2024:
1: I sew MORE when I’m not sewing on video (I mean, it takes sooooo much longer to shoot it all), but I have a better sense of making garments for a WARDROBE rather than one-offs when I sew for a series. So I definitely like a THEME to sew towards–like the garments I made for the How To Sew Activewear series for The League, which I wear ALL the time.
2: Even my failures have taught me useful nuggets, like the plaid cape I attempted but didn’t even finish because it was giving hard “garment bag” vibes, or the variations I made for the How To Sew Clothes series that I didn’t wear nearly as much. They give me insight into what works for me and my daily life, as well as what ideas have to get fleshed out before we can see if they have legs.
3: I’m right to always make a muslin, and when I don’t, I’m capable of being disappointed without it impacting my sense of skill or fun. That Darla Jumpsuit is cute as a button, but it doesn’t fit in a way that I feel great when I wear it; lesson learned.
4: I love the practice of imagining how a particular shape can be mixed up to make a variable wardrobe of STAPLES that get a lot of love and use. The How To Sew Clothes garments are FUN, and give me chances to envision how a basic garment shape can translate to another fabric or setting or activity. If I want to grow a lifelong wardrobe, then flexing these muscles is key.
What I’ll sew in 2025:
Based on ALLLLLL that, what will I sew in 2025? I mean, I would be a big fat liar if I didn’t say I have very long lists of specific patterns I want to sew. But I think as a “goal” I prefer to stick to the habits I intend to build. For 2025, these fall into three categories, and I’m giving approximately equal emphasis to each.
1: Sew ONE garment for myself that’s NOT for The League every month. This way, I can make things without the video camera on, at my own pace, and with the goal of exploring my own creativity with no other agenda.
2: Purchase ZERO new fabric in 2025, and reduce my stash of fabric down until it no longer overwhelms my storage solutions. I have SO MUCH beautiful fabric and I want to SEE IT more often.
3: Purchase ZERO garments in 2025, and only update my wardrobe with handmade items. Specifically, I have garments I’m hanging on to that I don’t love or even wear that much, but for which I have no practical replacement. I’m going to be working to sew new versions that I like better, and then donating or upcycling the old ones.
Themes for my 2025 sewing:
Which bring me to my themes for the year!
I’m most excited to sew:
1: JEANS (and also corduroys), to build the perfect jeans wardrobe for myself;
2: bras and underpants that I love;
3: and yoga wear, with as little micro-plastic content as I can manage.
3.5: I also have two big hiking trips planned for this year, and want to sew garments for those (ideally that replace the ones I made for the Activewear series that I’ve already worn out AND double as yoga wear);
4: and a birthday trip where I’d love to sew a corseted dress for a fine dining experience!
What about YOU? What did you take away from your sewing in 2024, and where will it take you in the New Year?
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